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Planting   Plant associations in the garden   Pruning   Propagation   Pest and diseases

Plant associations in the garden

Shrubs on wood edges

This is one of the most natural habitats for shrubs, on the edges of forest, forming a transition zone between woodland and lawn or grassland, Many shrubs benefit from the shelter of the trees, and can tolerate the partial shade, Where a clearing has been made in an existing forest, the trees will have bare trunks without side branches, and shrubs will soften the unnatural edges of the woodland and keep cold wind out of the woods, Suitable genera for this association are: Ilex, Magnolia, Hamamelis, Cornus, Rhododendron, Philadelphus, Prunus, Viburnum,

Shrubs as an understory beneath large trees

Many shrubs, particularly evergreen, grow naturally in open deciduous or mixed forest, beneath a tall canopy of trees, Rhododendrons, Camellias and Magnolias naturally live in this type of habitat, and this combination forms the basis of many of the famous woodland gardens in the British Isles and North America, Some deciduous shrubs also grow and flower well in this partially shaded habitat, provided that the canopy is not too dense, Many, such as Hamamelis, flower early before the leaves have developed on the large trees; in warmer climates most deciduous shrubs, e.g. deciduous azaleas, benefit from partial shade, Most shade-tolerant shrubs are suitable for this association, but especially Rhododendron, Camellia, Magnolia, Mahonia, Hamamelis, Corylopsis, Enkianthus, Hydrangea, Bamboos.

Shrubs in a shrub border

In shrub borders the shrubs should be planted close enough that their branches touch, but not so close that they interfere with one another's growth, The taller and more robust growers are planted at the back, the smaller or more delicate near the front, Careful planning is needed for optimum effect, and it is inevitable that the border will be planted rather too closely and require thinning after a few years, Sun-loving shrubs will mostly be planted in this type of border, and it will suit particularly those such as lilacs or Philadelphus which do best in full exposure on rich soils. Weeding by herbicides is possible because no herbaceous plants are grown, though early flowering bulbs which die down by mid-summer will do well beneath deciduous shrubs. Suitable genera for this association are: Syringa, Deutzia, Hibiscus, Philadelphus, Weigela, Ribes. Suitable bulbs are snowdrops, aconites, scillas and daffodils. In borders of shrubs which do not require regular feeding or mulching, moss can be encouraged as ground-cover by the use of paraquat as a herbicide, and when well established the effect can be most beautiful.

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Shrubs in a mixed border

The mixed border, in which trees, shrubs, herbaceous plants and bulbs grow together in harmony, is the most difficult, labour-intensive, but at the same time, the most rewarding of garden associations. Here shrubs may be the dominant feature and the other plantings kept simple, or only a few shrubs may be planted to give height and substance to the border, as well as some interest in winter and early spring. In both cases the shrubs should be planted so as to create the effect of small glades or clearings, with herbaceous plants enclosed in semi-circles of shrubs. Where shrubs are the major feature of the border, evergreen weed-smothering perennials, collectively called 'ground-cover', may be used, but tough, single perennials are more suitable as they are more easily weeded and manured. Hellebores, Primroses, Pulmonarias or Dicentras for the spring; Cranesbills, Hostas, Day-lilies or Ferns for summer; Lilies and Japanese anemones for autumn. Any shrubs may be grown in this association, but in practice they will usually be smaller or more refined ones, which have some special feature such as scent, rarity or elegant growth habit.

Growing hedges

Most hedges are composed of shrubs trees used in hedging are normally kept to shrub size, with the notable exceptions of a few such as the 26m-high, half-mile-long hedge at Mickleour in Perthshire which is composed of fully grown beech trees; it is now about 240 years old. Other trees often used are Cupressus x Cupressocyparis Taxus and Carpinus. A hedge may be made from lower deciduous or flowering shrubs, as well as from the tree species commonly used. The larger species of Philadelphus make a good hedge, quick-growing, spectacular and scenting the whole garden in mid-summer. Nothing is more impenetrable than a hedge of Ponciris trifoliata, and it is also beautiful when in flower. Other suitable garden species are: Ilex, Prunus lusitanica, Buxus, Salix.

Climbers and other shrubs on walls

In the wild most climbing shrubs grow on forest trees, struggling up into the canopy to get the light they need to flower and fruit. In gardens most climbers are grown on walls, though some of the most spectacular effects are to be had by Wisteria, climbing hydrangeas or huge vines grown up trees. Walls also provide a protected environment for shrubs which need more heat than they would receive in the open air, either in winter for those that are tender, or in summer to produce flowers or ripen their summer growth. Numerous shrubs will grow in areas otherwise too cold when protected by a wall. Climbers: Clematis; Wisteria; Roses. Tender shrubs: Ceanothus.

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Shrubs as ground cover

Creeping shrubs or creeping mutants of otherwise upright shrubs can be used as ground cover in place of the more usual herbaceous ground-cover. Many Cotoneasters are naturally creeping and are used for this purpose, low-growing evergreen azaleas are also very suitable. Possible genera include: Hedera, Hebe, Euonymus fortunei, Cotoneaster, low growing Ceanothus, Evergreen azalea.

Trees and shrubs as specimens in lawns

Any can, of course, be grown as a specimen in a lawn, but some are more suitable than others. The important features required are a good rather upright habit of growth, and interesting leaf shape, colour or bark, and at least reasonable appearance when not in flower. Some suggestions are: Cornus, Magnolia, Hardy Hybrid Rhododendron, Acer, Bamboo, Davidia, Euonymus (deciduous).

Trees and shrubs in pots

Dwarf trees and many shrubs may be grown in pots either by those who have only a paved garden, or where the garden soil is unsuitable for shrubs, such as Rhododendrons or Camellias, which do not tolerate chalky or alkaline soil. All shrubs can be grown in pots, in fact nowadays most are container grown by nurseries, but the most suitable subjects for permanent pot culture are those which naturally grow slowly and flower well without making long, strong shoots; they should also be able to tolerate drying out for a day or two without dying, as even the most careful gardeners may omit to water often enough in dry weather. They can also be brought inside in winter. The most suitable shrubs are: Camellias, Rhododendrons, Ceanothus, Fuchsia and Oleanders.

Shrubs for dry shade

Camellia japonica, Daphne laureola, Lonicera nitida, Mahonia, Euonymus (evergreen), Aucuba, Ivy, Phillyrea decora, Pieris, Sarcococca, Viburnum davidii, Skimmia, Fatsia.

Shrubs suitable for waterlogged soil

Cornus stolonifera, Cornus alba, Salix species, Amelanchier, Aronia, Lindera, Sambucus, Viburnum opulus, Bamboos,

Shrubs for chalk soil

Lilacs, Colutea, Potentilla fruticosa, Philadelphus, Forsythia, Phillyrea, Deutzia, Fuchsia, Spartium junceum, Cistus, Hypericum, Cornus sanguinea, Ceanothus, Sarcococca, Aesculus, californica, Paeonia.

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